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Arkhangelsk Region
// GENERAL INFORMATION
Arkhangelsk Region is located in northern European Russia and borders on the Republic of Karelia and Vologda and Murmansk regions. Its original name was Dvina Land (Dvinskaya Zemlya). Dvina Land was reorganized into Arkhangelogorod Province in 1708 by decree of Peter the Great, then into Arkhangelsk Province in December 1796, and finally into Arkhangelsk Region in September 1937.
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Arkhangelsk Region is a major commercial and industrial center of Russia with 3000 km of coastline on three Arctic seas (Barents, Kara and White seas), which help strengthen economic ties with many countries around the world. It is a large region with well-developed fishing, forest, woodworking, and pulp and paper industries.
The region has a total area of 589 900 km2, 39% of which is occupied by forests, 24.2% by reindeer pasture, 19% by islands, 1.3% by arable land, and the remainder by rivers, bogs, and lakes. It includes the Nenets Autonomous District, 20 administrative districts, 14 cities, 38 towns, about 4000 rural communities, and the island archipelagos of Novaya Zemlya and Franz Josef Land. The capital is Arkhangelsk. The basins of large rivers like the Northern (Severnaya) Dvina, Vaga, Pinega, Onega, and Mezen are located within the region.
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The climate is characterized by severe winters and relatively short cool summers owing to its proximity to the three Arctic seas and the Arctic Ocean. Winter temperatures can reach -26 °C, while average July temperatures are +14 to +16 °C. Frequent changes of air masses from high Arctic and temperate latitudes are typical of the region.
The population of Arkhangelsk Region as of January 1, 2000, was 1 459 900 people, most of whom lived in urban areas (1 086 500 people); the other 373 400 residents lived in rural areas. The population density is 2.5 people per km2.
HISTORY
Tsar Ivan the Terrible built the city of Arkhangelsk more than 400 years ago. Even then the city had a reputation for business and was a center for trade between Rus and European countries. The Solovetsky Monastery, built by citizens of Novgorod, had existed on Cape Pur-Navolok long before Arkhangelsk was founded. In 1583, the tsar ordered two of his army commanders (voevody), Nashchokin and Zaleshanin-Volokhov, to go to the Dvina and build a great city. The French merchant Jean de Savage, who visited the area in 1587, made the following note in his travel diary: "The construction is superb: there are neither nails nor hooks, but everything is surpassingly well made for all that."
The city was initially called Novye Kholmogory. It was located at the place on Cape Pur-Navolok where the Severnaya Dvina River delta begins, before the river splits up into branches and channels and flows into the White Sea.
Arkhangelsk was Russia's first commercial seaport and its first sea route to the West. No other northern city enjoyed such fame. Merchants from many Russian cities came here, and sea routes from every European country led to Arkhangelsk. Foreign merchants shipped huge quantities of goods here (e.g., Amsterdam satin, Venetian velvet, London broadcloth, and Danzig blankets) and carried back flax, hemp (ropes made from it were considered the finest in the world), tallow, wax, and timber.
Foreigners built their homes and warehouses on Zhabe Marsh (the site of the present-day Popov and Loginov streets). Exactly 100 years after the city's founding, the grand Arcade (Gostiny Dvor) known to every merchant in Russia and Europe became its trademark.
In 1693, the young Tsar Peter I (Peter the Great) arrived in Arkhangelsk, where he founded the Solombala Shipyards. The first ship was launched from the yard in June 1694. Peter returned to Arkhangelsk in the same year and set up a state trade monopoly in the most important export commodities that lasted until 1719. Then in May 1701, construction of the Novodvinskaya Fortress began by royal decree. The fortress was built below Solombala in order to protect Arkhangelsk from enemy attacks from the sea. The fortress sustained its first battle against a Swedish squadron on June 25. This was Russia's first victory over the Swedes. In 1702, Peter made Arkhangelsk the territorial administrative center, and six years later, a provincial city. Peter himself approved the city's coat of arms.
In honor of Peter's great contribution to the territory's development, the notable late-19th-century Russian sculptor M.M. Antokolsky raised a monument to him near Gostiny Dvor. The life-size bronze sculpture is seen as an authentic depiction and embodiment of the power of the Russian state. Four dates-1693, 1694, 1702, and 1911-are incised on the faces of the five-meter gray granite pedestal. The first three dates refer to the years of Peter's visits to Arkhangelsk and the fourth to the year the monument was created (it was actually unveiled in 1914).
For centuries, courageous coast dwellers (Pomory) went north from here to the Arctic seas to hunt marine animals and catch fish. They also discovered the islands of Kolguev, Vaigach, Novaya Zemlya and Grumant (Spitsbergen). Arkhangelsk is rightly called the gateway to the Arctic, because it was here that the expeditions of V.A. Rusanov, A.M. Sibiryakov, and G.Ya. Sedov were outfitted and seen off on their long journeys. The first research vessel, the Perseus (Persei) designed for conducting studies of the northern seas, was built here and set off on the first Kara Sea expeditions. The first ice survey flights marked the start of polar aviation.
In 1932, the icebreaker Sibiryakov made the first-ever passage of the Northern sea route from the White to the Bering Sea. The last expedition of I.D. Papanin, O.Yu. Shmidt, V.Yu. Vize, R.S. Samoilovich, and V.I. Voronin set out from here and became the first drifting research station.
During the Second World War, the White Sea flotilla was based in Arkhangelsk; and as it had been during the First World War, Arkhangelsk became the main port through which help came from Europe and America. Famous Navy cadet schools operated in Arkhangelsk and on the Solovetsky Islands. After enemy air attacks and landing parties had been repulsed or destroyed, important cargoes for the front (e.g., timber, mortars, flame throwers, and skiplanes) were sent out from the region.
Arkhangelsk stretches for nearly 40 km on both banks of the Severnaya Dvina River and on the islands of the delta where the river flows into the White Sea. The best known of the 12 large islands is Solombala. Its name comes from the Karelian word solenba, meaning a boggy, marshy island.
RESOURCES
The region is located in the northern part of the East European Plain. The central and southern parts are situated on an undulating plain with rolling uplands (e.g., Konoshkaya and Nyandomskaya). Hill and mountain ranges, such as the Vetreny Poyas Hills (northwest), Kanin Kamen Hills and Timan Ridge (north; the latter are up to 471 m high), and the Pai-Khoi Range (northeast) are characteristic of the northern parts. East of Timan Ridge are the vast boggy Pechora Lowlands, which are mainly taken up by the Bolshezemelskaya and Malozemelskaya tundras, with morainic ridges in the central part. The Kulaya River basin between the Onega and Severnaya Dvina rivers is characterized by karst topography.
The climate is temperate continental changing to subarctic in the northeast, with cool summers and long cold winters. Average January temperatures range from -12 iN in the west to -18 iN in the east; average July temperatures range from +16 iN to +8 iN as you go from south to north. Annual precipitation is 300-500 mm. The nearness of the ocean and frequent changes of air masses cause unstable weather and considerable cloudiness. The white nights begin in mid-May and last for 80 days. Fogs are frequent on the White Sea coast. The vegetation period ranges from 10 days in the northeast to 110 days in the south.
All rivers in the region, except the Ileksa, lie within the Arctic Ocean basin. The largest rivers are the Severnaya Dvina and its tributaries (Vychegda, Pinega, Vaga), Onega, Mezen, and Pechora. There are also nearly 2500 lakes, the largest of which are Lacha, Kenozero, and Kozhozero.
The soils are predominantly podzolic-gley [sticky claylike soil], peaty-boggy, podzolic, and podzolic-boggy types. Permafrost is widespread in the northeast.
The northeastern part of the region is located in the tundra zone, with Arctic, moss and lichen, and shrubby (in the more southerly parts) subzones. Soils are typically tundra-gley and tundra-boggy.
The forest tundra zone is characterized by sparse tree growth combined with treeless tundra areas and predominantly peaty-gley and subpodzolic soils.
Forests in the region are mainly located within the northern and central taiga zones, with spruce, pine, larch, and fir predominating. The forests are the habitat of mammals such as brown bears, moose, reindeer, and foxes (including the Arctic fox) and birds like the willow ptarmigan and hazel, black, and wood grouse.
Nature preserves located in the region include the Solovetsky Museum and Nature Preserve (established in 1974; area, 28 900 hectares), Kenozersky National Park (established in 1991; area, 139 700 hectares), and the Pinezhsky Nature Preserve (established in 1974; area, 51 500 hectares).
Arkhangelsk Region has an abundance of economic minerals. Geologists have discovered and explored deposits of diamonds, bauxite, oil, gas, and condensate, building materials, carbonate rock, industrial and building stone, and fresh and mineral waters.
ECONOMY
As of January 1, 2003, 21696 enterprises and organizations of all ownership and management forms were registered in the region. Most of the registered enterprises belonged to the private economic sector. The largest numbers of private-sector enterprises are concentrated in agriculture (91%), trade (88%), construction (80%), agency activities (79%), industry (70%), and transport (54%). Ownership forms of large and medium industrial enterprises are as follows: 56% mixed, 16% state, 6% municipal, and 21% private; 0.7% are public associations.
The forest industry has traditionally been the region's leading economic sector. The largest companies are the OAO Arkhangelsk Pulp and Paper Mill (Arkhangelsky TsBK), OAO Kotlas Pulp and Paper Mill (Kotlassky TsBK), OAO Solombala Pulp and Paper Mill (Solombalsky TsBK), and OAO Solombala Sawing and Woodworking Combine (Solombalsky LDK).
Arkhangelsk Region's military-industrial complex has high production and scientific/technical potential, making it unique in Russia. Production has increased stably over the past year.
The region's economy is continuing to develop, and new forms of economic relations are being created.
The agroindustrial complex of Arkhangelsk Region includes companies and organizations involved in the production of agricultural products and the fishing, cereal, food, and processing industries, as well as companies that service the complex (maintenance, supply and sales, construction, agricultural chemicals, veterinary services, etc.)
Farming activity is mainly oriented toward raising beef and dairy cattle (Kholmogory breed). Production is carried out on 522 000 hectares of farmland that includes 258 000 hectares of arable land.
Livestock farms for raising pedigreed cattle (Kholmogory breed) and workhorses (Mezen breed) operate in Arkhangelsk Region. The Arkhangelsk Liverstock Company (Arkhangelskoe plempredpriyatie) buys and exports pedigreed livestock and poultry under an agreement with the pedigree livestock breeding committee of the Department of Agriculture.
Vegetables are grown both outside and in greenhouses.
Fur farms in the region produce and process furs and sell fur products on the domestic and foreign markets.
Poultry farming is carried out by AOOT Arkhptitseprom, which was set up by poultry processing plants of the region. There are currently seven plants producing eggs and poultry meat.
Companies of the processing industry process and sell agricultural products.
The fishing industry in Arkhangelsk Region is represented by fishing and fish-processing companies offering a wide variety of products for sale.
Scientific support for the agricultural industry of Arkhangelsk Region and the North is provided by the Arkhangelsk Agricultural Research Institute. The institute operates four agricultural research stations that produce high-quality seeds of grain, potato, perennial, and berry varieties zoned for different parts of the region and breed pedigreed livestock. The Kotlas and Kholmogory research stations sell barley, clover, and other perennial seeds and seed potatoes.
Arkhangelsk Region has significant forest resources, which has resulted in the formation of Russia's largest forest industry complex. The total forested area is about 20 million hectares with 2.2 billion m3 of timber reserves, including 1.6 billion m3 of mature and overmature wood. The annual calculated logging volume is 21.0 million m3, including 16.8 million m3 of coniferous timber. Arkhangelsk Region produces 11% of all industrial wood in Russia, 12% of all lumber, 33% of all market cellulose, and 30% of all paper and cardboard.
The forest industry complex employs 72 000 people, or 50% of all industrial workers. About 180 companies in the region are involved in logging and wood processing. Most logging companies utilize 40-50% of their allotments. The 1.6 billion m3 of mature usable reserves consist mainly of coniferous species, namely, spruce (59.1%) and pine (26.6%). Today, the largest logging companies are AO Svetlozerskles, AO Lukovetsky Forest Industry Enterprise (Lukovetsky lespromkhoz), AO Dvinles, AO Ust-Pokshengsky Forest Industry Enterprise (Ust-Pokshengsky lespromkhoz), and AO Onegales.
Woodworking companies in the region belong to three main groups:
- pulp and paper mills;
- sawing and woodworking plants;
- furniture factories.
The region's three largest pulp and paper mills are located in the cities of Arkhangelsk (OAO Solombala Pulp and Paper Mill), Novodvinsk (OAO Arkhangelsk Pulp and Paper Mill), and Koryazhma (OAO Kotlas Pulp and Paper Mill).
Manufacturing capacity is 1.9 million tons for cellulose pulp, 360 000 tons for paper, and 653 000 tons for cardboard. Facilities are currently being utilized at 50-60% of capacity.
Sawing and woodworking plants likewise use 30-40% of their production facilities. Nearly all of these companies are oriented toward producing lumber for export; some are outfitted with imported equipment for sorting, facing, drying, and packaging lumber and are capable of producing high-quality products. Lumber production capacity is 4 million m3 per year, including 1.7 million m3 for export. The largest sawmills are located in the cities of Arkhangelsk, Onega, and Kotlas, and in Mezensky District.
More than 60 light-industry enterprises are registered in Arkhangelsk Region, including 13 large and medium businesses such as OAO Soyuz (clothing), OAO Severyanka (shoes), OAO Arkhpromkombinat (bedding, clothing, hats, and coats), ZAO White Sea Designs Folk Art Company (NKhP Belomorskie uzory), ZAO Soyuz-spetsodezhda (special clothing for the oil and gas and other industries), and ZAO Obuvbyt (shoes and boots).
AUTHORITIES
The Arkhangelsk Region Administration is the main executive body. It organizes and administers the region, draws up and implements the budget and development programs representing the interests of the population, works to solve existing problems, and concerns itself with the prospects for regional development.
The Legislative Assembly is Arkhangelsk Region's highest legislative body.
CULTURE AND ART
Unlike other Russian regions, Arkhangelsk Region's cultural heritage is truly Russian. It is only in the North, which escaped the Tatar-Mongol invasions, that the traditions of the forebears of the coast dwellers were preserved, traditions that were expressed in works of art, sculpture, and Old Russian arts and crafts (native dress, embroidery, wood carving and painting, decorative metalwork, and ceramics). Examples of all these arts can be seen in the Arkhangelsk Regional Museum of Fine Art, which was established in 1960 and is one of Russia's major art museums. The museum's collection numbers about 30 000 works of domestic art created between the 14th century and the present. Other works can be seen in Arkhangelsk Regional Museum of Local Lore, which has gathered a unique collection of 200 000 items since it was founded in 1837. Its exhibits include works relating to the archeology and ethnography of the northern peoples, the history and culture of the territory from ancient times to the present, Arctic exploration, shipbuilding, Old Russian and decorative arts and crafts, and numismatics (coins) and bonistics (paper money). However, it is not only museum exhibits that can tell us about the territory's history. For example, there is the Northern Russian State Academic Folk Chorus of Arkhangelsk, which has been in existence for 60 years. This is not a traditional choir but rather a kind of theater in which singers, dancers, and musicians together narrate stories about the lives of the people through entertaining folk plays, songs, ceremonies, and music. Another group, the White Sea (Beloe more) Contemporary Folk Music Ensemble has been delighting city residents for four years. Its musicians are notable for trying to reflect the diversity of contemporary music that is possible on Russian folk instruments. More exacting audiences will not be disappointed by a visit to the Arkhangelsk State Chamber Orchestra, which grew from an amateur group into a professional ensemble that currently presents programs consisting of popular baroque and classical compositions adapted for a string orchestra.
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